This is not shrimp scampi, but it’s also not not shrimp scampi. Because if you grab a shovel and dig into it, this saucy, satisfying dish, which took off in the U.S. in the wake of World War II, has so many meanings, it’s almost meaningless.

“In an effort to get an unromantic, unbiased definition of the word, Italian dictionaries of all sizes were consulted,” wrote Nan Ickeringill in 1964. “Unfortunately they were peculiarly silent on the subject, except for an occasional phrase such as, ‘Dio si scampi!’ which is translated as ‘God forbid!’”

What everyone can agree on is that scampi is the plural of scampo, the Italian word for a type of shellfish, as well as a type of dish using said shellfish. This is not uncommon. Think of callaloo: the greens of the taro plant and also the Caribbean dish using those greens. Or muffuletta: the round, sesame-speckled Italian bread and also the New Orleanian sandwich on that bread.